Racing the Macau bound Jetfoils past Hong Kong’s outer anchorages and through the Adamasta Channel, our fast ferry reaches the busy fishing port of Cheung Chau in just 30 minutes or so.
Though Cheung Chau literally means “Long Island” the island is shaped rather more like a dumbbell. The Cheung Chau section of today’s hike will take us around the spectacular rocky southeastern part of the island, visiting an ancient rock carving and a couple of very pretty temples along the way.
On our way back to the pier, we will try not to get too lost in the maze of narrow lanes that make up Cheung Chau’s main settlement. There will be time for plenty of photo stops as well as a thorough look at the temples, but we won’t be dawdling too much as we have a ferry to catch.
The smooth 20-minute ride to Chi Ma Wan pier is an ideal opportunity to enjoy a snack while taking in the rugged coastlines of the islands.
As we disembark, your guide will do his best to persuade the wardens of the nearby Detention Centre that you are not a batch of new inmates. Assuming we all get through, we quickly find ourselves on a different barrier: The dam of the Chi Ma Wan reservoir. This very picturesque reservoir once supplied drinking water to all of Lantau but is now merely a wonderful oasis.
Beyond the reservoir, our well-shaded dirt path climbs ever so gently for a couple of kilometers before leveling out as it follows the contours of the peninsula. From above we look down at Yi Long Bay, the secluded Sea Ranch resort, and across to Cheung Chau and Shek Kwu Chau. We will eat our packed lunch on a big rock offering spectacular views…
Descending past a couple of ruins we reach Mong Tung Wan, home to an underused youth hostel and a rather successful Christian youth centre. Joining a concrete path we reach the village of Pui O where we check to see that the famous water buffaloes are still allowed to roam free in the swamps.
While we finish the walk at the village bus stop, you might consider ending the day with a refreshing swim at the popular nearby Pui O Beach before returning home via Mui Wo.
Once we leave Cheung Chau, there are no stores along today’s route, so please bring a packed lunch and plenty of water. Only at our destination, Pui O, will you be able to buy food and drinks.
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