Northeastern Ghost Towns
(Week-end)
Not easily accessible and largely uninhabited, Hong Kong's northeastern villages are ideal field locations for studying the heritage, economic
transitions and ecological changes of the country's rural districts. Now as before, this "back garden" offers tranquil settings, rustic hamlets,
verdant forests and delightful scenery.
We begin our hike in Luk Keng - less than 30 minutes by bus from the railway linking Hong Kong with China proper. Located at the shores of
Starling Inlet, Luk Keng is a close to the mainland you can get without a written permission from the Commissioner of Police... During the first
part of the hike, we will be able to see (and even hear) the outer suburbs of the rapidly developing Chinese boarder city of Shen Zhen.
However, it is not long before we put today behind us and dive into history...
According to ancestral records, the Yeung family first settled in Kuk Po Lo Wai in 1672, earning a good income from farming and fishing. Rice
was grown in terraces on slopes and marshland was drained. On the higher slopes, fruit trees provided another source of income. In the
early 1950's, the population had grown to more than 500.
Sadly, since the onset of industrial development at the end of the 1960's, Kuk Po - as all other northeastern villages - has seen its population
dwindle. A mere handful of people now live in the area and many buildings have been abandoned and are falling into disrepair. Walking
around these villages is, however, quite fascinating and offers good photo opportunities.
After Kuk Po, we will tackle our only real climb of the day as we make our way over Fan Shui Au to the ghost towns of Mui Tsz Lam and Kop
Tong, before we reach the impressive old Hakka village of Lai Chi Wo. Lai Chi Wo is also the home of an ancient mangrove forest. With its
network of interweaving buttress roots, the Coastal Heritiera makes for a very intriguing sight. Many trees are so large that it takes two
people to hug, while some roots grow to chest height.
It is a short easy walk from Lai Chi Wo to Sam A Tsuen, where we stop for lunch at one of Hong Kong's most remote restaurants.
After lunch we continue along the mangrove clad shoreline, before making our way inland past the ruins of Ha Miu Tin to the eerily empty
houses of Kau Tam Tso. Peeping through windows, we notice chinaware in the cabinets, bottles on tables and photos of grandparents still on
the walls...
We finish our hike at Wu Kau Tang. Consisting of a number of interconnected villages, the relatively lively Wu Kau Tang, is the end of the line
for the infrequent minibus from Tai Po.
(Week-end)
Not easily accessible and largely uninhabited, Hong Kong's northeastern villages are ideal field locations for studying the heritage, economic
transitions and ecological changes of the country's rural districts. Now as before, this "back garden" offers tranquil settings, rustic hamlets,
verdant forests and delightful scenery.
We begin our hike in Luk Keng - less than 30 minutes by bus from the railway linking Hong Kong with China proper. Located at the shores of
Starling Inlet, Luk Keng is a close to the mainland you can get without a written permission from the Commissioner of Police... During the first
part of the hike, we will be able to see (and even hear) the outer suburbs of the rapidly developing Chinese boarder city of Shen Zhen.
However, it is not long before we put today behind us and dive into history...
According to ancestral records, the Yeung family first settled in Kuk Po Lo Wai in 1672, earning a good income from farming and fishing. Rice
was grown in terraces on slopes and marshland was drained. On the higher slopes, fruit trees provided another source of income. In the
early 1950's, the population had grown to more than 500.
Sadly, since the onset of industrial development at the end of the 1960's, Kuk Po - as all other northeastern villages - has seen its population
dwindle. A mere handful of people now live in the area and many buildings have been abandoned and are falling into disrepair. Walking
around these villages is, however, quite fascinating and offers good photo opportunities.
After Kuk Po, we will tackle our only real climb of the day as we make our way over Fan Shui Au to the ghost towns of Mui Tsz Lam and Kop
Tong, before we reach the impressive old Hakka village of Lai Chi Wo. Lai Chi Wo is also the home of an ancient mangrove forest. With its
network of interweaving buttress roots, the Coastal Heritiera makes for a very intriguing sight. Many trees are so large that it takes two
people to hug, while some roots grow to chest height.
It is a short easy walk from Lai Chi Wo to Sam A Tsuen, where we stop for lunch at one of Hong Kong's most remote restaurants.
After lunch we continue along the mangrove clad shoreline, before making our way inland past the ruins of Ha Miu Tin to the eerily empty
houses of Kau Tam Tso. Peeping through windows, we notice chinaware in the cabinets, bottles on tables and photos of grandparents still on
the walls...
We finish our hike at Wu Kau Tang. Consisting of a number of interconnected villages, the relatively lively Wu Kau Tang, is the end of the line
for the infrequent minibus from Tai Po.
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| ... exploring Hong Kong's other side... |
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